The first 32 km we had the wind to our backs and we were able to cruise down to the junction with the famous Ruta 40. Once there we had a slight sidewind as we rode up the eastern shore of Lago Argentino.
Most of the day the wind was slight, it was only near the end, as we found ourselves on a grueling 4 km climb that the wind grew stronger. once at the top we decided to call it day. Ahead we spotted a house and went to see if camping was possible. As we rolled up a woman came out to greet us, and she said it was indeed possible to camp. And so we did.
Later in the evening someone rolled up and it was the woman´s husband, his name was Simon. He came out to greet us, and explain that if we needed anything, he would be in the house. Even later, as we were eating dinner, he came out and shared maté with us. The first time either of us had tried it. I must say, now we´re hooked.
That day we rode nearly 80 km. It was a good day.
The following morning we again shared maté. Simon and his wife, Ana Lisa invited us inside for tea and coffee. Simon showed us photos of condors and pieces of petrified wood. We thanked them for their hospitality and were on the road by 12 pm. We began the day under clear skies and light wind but 20 km down the road we encountered wind, and the end of the pavement! I couldn´t believe it. For the next 15 - 20 km we were on gravel roads and in amongst construction crews prepping the gravel road for paving. We stopped about 35 km out at Hotel La Leona. A historic landmark of the region, where none other than Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid came to hideout from the law. For five years they evaded capture until they were killed in a gunfight in Bolivia. The prices were high and the service wasn´t as good as it should have been. We rode out over Rio La Leona and 5 km out we hit pavement, and for the first time we were able to see Lago Veidma. From there we continued down the road for 20 or so km until we reached Ruta 23 junction and that was our cue to turn left and head down the final leg to El Chalten. One sign said 94 km to El Chalten, another said 90, and yet another said 89 km. I think all mileage posts in Argentina and Chile should contain a +/- 5 km because they never seem to be in agreeance. At that point we were just hoping to roll another 10 km, that way we would have only 80 km to El Chalten for the next day. Well, we kept going, eventually the wind died down, and we both felt great, so we kept going until we rolled down alongside Lago Viedma. We ended up rolling an additional 16 km further than we had initially intended.
Just down the way we spied an estancia and we opted to stop and inquire if it was possible to camp there for the night. They said it was fine, and we spent the night beneath the tall pines of Estancia San Martin.
The following morning we were on the road by 11 am and cruising slowly, but steadily towards El Chalten. Barely 10 km out I spotted an Armadillo on the side of the road. Thomas and I both jumped off our bikes and went to photograph it. We must have spent 25 minutes there laying on our stomachs just feet from the creature. Really amazing to see an animal like that up close. Not sure how rare it is, but I consider both of us very fortunate.
Later in the day we were rewarded with amazing views of Mount Fitz Roy in the distance. That was something for motivation. Also at that point, the roads became very straight and flat and it seemed as though we were riding on a treadmill.
The winds picked up. And to pass the boredom we both listened to our ipods. In the distance we could see the road winding up into the mountains. A long climb was inevitable.
With 20 km left we stopped for a snack and then made the final push. Thomas and I were both pushing as hard as we could. We both wanted to roll into El Chalten first. It was quite the ride and we ended up rolling into town together.
El Chalten is nestled in the mountains at the base of Fitz Roy and its not possible to see the town until you´re 1 km away. The clouds have obscured our view of the famous peak, but we´ve been fortunate to see everything else on this trip, so it´s ok.
We´re camping at a free campsite now. We might stay here for a couple of days. Do some hiking. Then head out for Lago del Desierto and Villa O´higgins where we begin the Carretera Austral. There are trees here in El Chalten.
We´re hoping that signifies the lessening of the winds. But we´re not holding our breath. We´ve gone over 1400 km now. It´s really just good times now.
I think I´ll head back to camp and take some maté. I miss everyone and hope you are all well. Until next time. Chao!
Zach
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