Feeling the Pull

I'm beginning to feel the pull. The tug. The aching for something far too familar. Please kill me now for I know in 3 months I will feel sick from too many familiarities. I long for my own bed. For my own pillow. My old friend: the White Jeep. I wish to pet my dog. Drive down the road, sit by the lake. I wish to play tennis. To hit my ball from the sandtrap. Ride my bike side by side with Mr. Mt. Si. And I know it. I must be nuts. Am I homesick? I think not. Simply weary from 4 months spent on the road. I simply feel the need for something stable. Something concrete. A place to permanently drop my luggage. To rest my soul. And feel the end of the road and the end of spinning tires forcing me northward. I feel the need to stop for awhile. To regain composure and plan my next excursion. For now I am aching, and longing. One more week, one more week and I'll be missing the one thing I have grown weary of...


Zach

On Machu Picchu

wow so here i am back in cusco. the trip to machu picchu was amazing. i wish i had more adjectives because im sure youre all sick of reading the same ones over and over but i really cant help myself. i was so fortunate to spend my time biking and hiking to mp with great people. i have definitely forged more reliable contacts in europe. now i have a trail leading all the way from the netherlands down to spain!

anyhow mp. lets see. we woke up at 4 am and sleepily walked from our hotel down the road to begin the hike up. pitch black and humid we hiked up using headlamps. our goal was to reach the summit before dawn. and we did. me and avi reached the top in just over 40 minutes and were in line before they opened the gates. once they did so around 6 am it was a mad rush to get to huyanapicchu (they only allow 400 ppl on the trail all day) and we got there with no problem. lots of people were running to get there but there was no need. we got the ticket for 10 (two times are available: at 7 am and 10 am) and then set out to explore the place before we met up for a tour at 7 am. it was just incredible. i was so lucky to have spent time there. just before the tour and the sun had risen over the tops of the mountains, we hiked up to the house of guardians for the classic machu picchu photo then we hightailed it down to catch the tour. i took the spanish one just bc the english one was overcrowded. after listening for 15 minutes the sun had risen over the mountains and i decided to bail on the tour and return to the house the guardians for more classic mp photos. i was happy i did. i got some great photos. and actually a little bit later i saw the group and met up with them halfway through the tour! afterwards we went to climb huyanapicchu. i was abit scared bc we had heard that it was dangerous but ultimately i decided to go. the other ppl from my group were wishy washy but eventually 3 of us. Me, Avi, and Kevin decided to do it. and we were all glad to have done it. the hike wasnt as bad as the initial hike into mp and it wasnt scary at all. apparently 7 ppl died on it last year. no worries, the view was amazing and we had to climb an additional 400m to the top. it took me about a half hour. it was spectacular. the photos really are out of this world. afterwards we hiked back down, got our passports stamped, and met up with Gabriel for lunch. Then we climbed back up to the house of the guardians and relaxed on one of the terraces. i could have stayed there forever. around 1 pm we met up with avi and decided to spend our last 2 hours going our own separate ways. i went to relax in the shade of a different terrace but got a whistle blown at me and i had to get off. i decided to make one last climb to the house of the guardians to say goodbye to mp properly. the view is just incredible and really just crazy. my entire life thats the one photo ive seen as has everyone else and i was there. we all were there. and it was just great. at 3 pm we met up at the entrance and walked back down to aguas calientes where we picked up our train tickets and grabbed some dinner. we got back to cusco around 10 pm and now im here today planning my exit from peru and the continent. just about 5 days left. incredible. for now i am out. talk soon. take care.

zach

whoa, hey!

Hello hello! Looks like this is my 51st post on my blog in the past 4 or so months! Incredible to think I've come this far. From landing in Santiago, Chile, to riding north from Ushuaia and now Peru, It's incredible to think I'm finally here. We´ve been biking and hiking our way towards Machu Picchu for the past 3 days and this afternoon we finally arrived in Aguas Calientes, the final city and last jumping off point for Machu Picchu. It's been a great journey. The group I have been with is exceptional, and quite diverse. A Spaniard: Gabriel, two Hollanders: Kevin and Avi, the two brits and honeymooners: Becky and Tony, and myself, along with the great guide from Cuzco: Hugo (El Jefe).

The first day we cycled 45 km (mostly downhill) from 4100m to 1500m to the first stop of Santa Maria. It was amazing to see the landscape and terrain change before our eyes. Halfway down we encountered jungle for the first time. Once in Santa Maria, we took dinner, had some beer, chatted, and slept.

The following day (yesterday) we left at 7 and hiked for 7 hours. We also walked on a 500 year old Inca Trail only just discovered 11 years previously. Literally one meter of walking space, and a sheer drop off nearly 1000m down to the river below. Amazing. At the end of the day we celebrated by relaxing in the hot springs of Santa Teresa. Last night we again drank beer, chatted, and played cards before turning in for the night.

This morning we took breakfast at 830 and headed out of Santa Teresa at 9 am walking upriver through Hidroelectrica, and eventually to Aguas Calientes where we are currently. Amazingly during our trek today we were able to see portions of Machu Picchu and we even paused momentarily at the entrance to Machu Picchu. Tomorrow morning we wake up at 4 am to hike 400m to reach Machu Picchu before dawn. It will be incredible. I can't wait.

And thats that. Tonight we take dinner at 7pm, and head to bed because we have to wake up so early. Tomorrow night will see us all back in Cuzco and once again as is always the case, heading our own separate ways. I will most likely head down to the coast before heading to Lima for my flight back home on the 1st of June.

I'd like to thank all of you for reading and commenting on my posts throughout the duration of my trip. This has been an amazing experience and I'm glad I was able to share it with all of you. Until next time, chao chao!

Zach

:]

On Being In Cusco

Wow so here I am. At last. The pinnacle of my trip to South America: Cusco. I thought I'd be here by bicycle, and with my best friend Thomas Schultz but it didn't work out and regardless I am here. It really is amazing to think about. I love history and I remember I learned about the Inca's and Machu Picchu. I've seen countless TV shows on The History Channel, Discovery Channel, Travel Channel: Anthony Bourdain, Samantha Brown, Andrew Zimmern, and never in my wildest dreams did I ever think I'd find myself here. Incredible. This trip has taught me so much. I've seen so much. Photographed so much. Been to so many places and met amazing people along the way. I'll be back in the states within 3 weeks. Sad to think that it is drawing to a close, but one thing I've learned is that letting go, moving on, does not always have to be a sad time because I'm moving forward, onto another journey, another stage in life, and from it I will gain more life-experience. I was just telling an old friend that nothing is out of reach. If you really want to travel then do it. I spent so long talking and not enough doing. I've done something and now I want to do more. And so I think I will...


:]

On Visiting The Islands of Taquile and the Uros

After visiting the Island of Taquile, I understand why it is said that to fully appreciate the Island it is necessary to stay one full night. The island is relaxed, its people trying to lead traditional lives. I think it is much the way it was when the Inca ruled all the surrounding land. The clothes, dresses, cloth, all in bright colors; reds, pinks, oranges, greens, and browns. The people of the floating Islands of Uros; incredible the way they live life. On nothing more than several layers of reeds, some live their entire life. The islands last 12 - 13 years, then must be replaced. As Westerners we pass through and wonder how they live that way, seemingly on a floating prison, the only company seven other families. But that is always the Westerner perception. Who are we to question their way of life when they've survived in just this way for decades; predating the Inca by one-thousand years? Modern day western civilization has been in existence for just over 100 years and it has come through like a hurricane and pushed the environment to its limits. We should be taking a lesson. As we cruise through Lago Titicaca we are simply exposed to a glimpse of their lives. I see people like this and I feel sorry, but why? Because I feel they have nothing? Because I feel I've so much more? I suppose it is all in the eye of the beholder: a car, a house, schooling, a career If I want one, are all things we as Westerners seek or tend to think of as what one needs to survive or succeed. But it is untrue. They've so much more out here. We all need to realize this. That our lives are not better, just simply different...


Zach

Valley Record Article

We finally got our 15 minutes of fame in the Sno-Valley Record! And here it is:

http://www.pnwlocalnews.com/east_king/svr/lifestyle/44402347.html

Pretty cool if you ask me. Ok, chao chao!


Zach

quick update

hey just a real quick one here guys. lets see. im in arequipa now. its been about 2 days. thinking i'll go for some white-water rafting the day after tomorrow. been seeing a lot of the town the last couple of days. i think i'll take tomorrow to relax. after arequipa i'll head to puno for 4 days or so, and then up to cusco. i was looking in the book here at the hostel and for $220 usd you can do a 4 day half-bike half-trek up to machu picchu. $220 covers entrance fee, food, lodging/tent, and the train to and from cusco. it sounds like a pretty good deal. we'll see how it goes. cant believe its already the 12th of may, the month is almost half over! ok, for now i'm out. talk soon! chao chao!


zach

El Ciervo Cabañas Massacre

Traveling with four people for so long finally pushed Thomas over the edge...

puerto montt

Taken by Thiago on our last day with Thiago: Ralph, Thomas, and I...

on arica and traveling solo

welp, lets see. its now the 7th of may and lots to update. probably wont be posting any new photos until i get home, which as it stands is the 6th of june. but i will for sure be taking lots of them. anyhow lets see. i think we left off in Santiago, set to head north into the desert.

So we rented a car, a small Chevy Corsa, strapped my bike box to the top and took off. Maps and streets and signs in Chile and Argentina don´t usually tend to make sense, and this was a recuring theme all throughout our time in the south, but maybe the capital city of Santiago would be different? Wrong. We got lost, rather horribly I might add and ended up driving around for 2 hours, downtown, on highways and other roads trying to find route 5. Eventually we did and it was a major relief. Driving all night was the plan. We had a lot of ground to cover, in the end it was 1600 km or so (1000 miles) in 24 hours. I was in the back seat while Thomas and Ralph switched off driving since I can´t drive stick. We spent the majority of the night listening to Rage Against the Machine, trance, and various other obnoxious artists good for keeping people awake and late night driving. At midnight we stopped for caffeine and energy drinks and by 330 i was asleep in the back.

I woke up around 715 and we were 150 km away from San Pedro stopped at an old abandoned town. It took us just a short time and we were there. Higher elevation and the surrounding mountains and landscape of San Pedro is unlike any other. It´s like stepping onto Mars, or the moon. The actual town of San Pedro de Atacama is quite idyllic. Old adobe houses, bright colors, narrow dirt streets and Pepper Trees. It was a really nice place, and the town it seemed was unchanged despite the incredible amount of tourism the place recieved. The first night we drove out to La Valle de La Luna (The Valley of the Moon) and took photos while the sun fell out of sight. Let me tell you, watching the sunset in the Atacama is an experience all its own. The colors were incredible. Like a fire descending down the volcanoes and altiplano in the distance. Really impossible to capture on camera or with words, you´d just have to be there to see it. That night we slept like babies.

We woke up the following morning and had plans to visit the salt flats, flamingoes, and Laguna Misconti. We arrived to the salt flats and took a stroll and it was amazing to see all the various vibrant colors. Purple, red, green, yellow, orange, all visible at various times. There were in fact flamingoes and lots of lizards. We took a lot of good photos and saw lots of amazing dry salt structures. We left in the late afternoon for Laguna Misconti and arrived just before sunset. Perfecto. We were at a pretty high elevation, nearly 3800 m and it was apparent when we hiked around the lagoon. The waters were blue and surrounded by volcanoes and peaks and once again we would witness the amazing colors during sunset. This time the hills turned gold. Things like Saffron, Tamaric, Goldenrod, come to mind when I think back to that evening. The next day we planned to visit the Geysers at El Tatio and apparently it was necessary to arrive very early. 90 km on less than adequate roads, we´d heard that tour operators leave around 4 am.

We woke up at 415 and planned to be on the road by 430. We headed out, I fell asleep in the back seat and woke up about 10 km out. Upon arrival, we paid the fee and drove the short distance down to the geysers. Steam was rising and the smell of sulfur was strong. We all agreed later that we´d arrived too early. It was much better lighting later in the morning, and far less tourist groups. Nevertheless it was amazing. Like stepping back in time to the earths´ early beginnings. Geyers, bubbling pools, vibrant colors from minerals, it was awesome. We arrived at 630 and didnt leave until quarter to 10. And then we had the plan to visit some Incan Ruins about 30 km north and west of El Tatio. Finally we decided to take a shorter, gravel road to our destination. Upon embarking on the road we saw a sign telling us of the bad state of the road ahead. We had no idea what we were in for in our small, no-clearance-whatsoever-chevy corsa, but we were in for an adventure. We climbed high into the mountains, and right off the bat it was apparent that the road was far more suited to a modified 4 wheel off road pick-up. Along the way the drive was amazing. Mountains, more volcanoes, pre-columbian ruins, and old incan trails. We stopped so many times to take photos and remove rocks from the road. Our highest point was just over 4300 m (nearly the equivalent to Mount Rainier) and it was crazy to think Thomas and I were out there running around moving rocks. Eventually we made it to a valley and passed an old abandoned hydroelectric project. There was light at the end of the tunnel for us. And just when we think this, disaster strikes and we pulled up to an unpassable river crossing. maybe 3 or 4 feet deep. And so maybe 10 km from our goal we had to turn around. We were in jeopardy of really getting into something bad. Our fuel was running low, we didnt have much food, and it took us 3 hours to drive 20 km and we were in a Chevy Corsa (refer to photo: http://espaciocoches.com/wp-content/chevrolet-corsa-classic-2007.jpg). We were all disappointed, angry, and frustrated, and it was highly apparent on the ride back. Ralph pulled off some miracles climbing up some of the hills, keeping us on the road and preventing us from getting stuck. At one point Thomas and I had to push the car up a hill and when we got to the top Thomas said he almost cried he was so happy. Eventually we got back to geysers and even back to San Pedro. There was dust on the car, in the car, in our hair and eyes and when we got back to town and our hostel, we were all exhausted. As Thomas said, there was no other way to end the trip. And that was that. We got back to town, grabbed some dinner and headed to the bus station. I was dreading it. Scared to be alone and traveling into Peru. We said goodbye, good luck, thanks, and embraced and I boarded the bus for Arica.

Sleep last night was minimal but I arrived into town early this morning and took a long nap in a nice big bed. Tomorrow I head north to Tacna, Peru and begin my long trek through the southern regions of Puno and Lago Titicaca and then to Cuzco and Machu Picchu. It will be an adventure, a challenge, but I know I can rise to the ocasion. I suppose thats it for now. Not sure when I´ll get a chance to update next but maybe in Puno. Ok I´m hungry and wanting to get out of this chair! I hope you´re all well. Thanks for reading :] talk soon! Chao chao!


Zach

hola!

hola buen dia! how is everyone? well, lots to update. too much in fact. after puerto montt, saying goodbye to thiago, and taking the rental truck north, we made 300 km in the first day up to villarica.

we stayed in the town for 3 days. the first night was spent in a swiss hospedaje downtown. the following day we headed out and hiked up towards volcan villarica, high into native arucania (monkey puzzle) forests. it was amazing. we were probably 10 km from the summit of the volcano. great views, great photo ops and a great hike. we all really enjoyed the day.

after our hike we decided to head to pucon, a popular tourist destination, for dinner. but afterwards we decided to head back to villarica. ralph had found a flyer for dog mushing, so we all agreed to head back and check it out. we arrived late at night. the couple, as it turns out were german (perfect for ralph), were very nice and welcomed us despite the late hour. they had one cabaña left and it was a great one. we spent two nights there. the first day thomas and i took a jog with one of their dogs. later, thomas and ralph rode horses and at the end of the night we had a bbq. salad, meat, potatoes, beer and wine. it was an enjoyable night. our time spent there definitely remains a high point on this trip. ralph also left with the possibility of a winter job. reluctantly, we left the following morning. and we were headed for the coast without any real plan in mind.

by the end of that day we were exhausted yet we all felt like we hadn´t really gotten anywhere. all day in the car and where had we ended up? we spent the night in a cabaña and left the following morning with the intention of doing some wine tasting and maybe some sightseeing of some of the towns along the panamerican highway.

we headed north, and our first stop was at villa alegre; an older, well preserved town with houses and streets that date to the 19th century. that day we ended up running out of time as we didnt leave villa alegre until 5 pm and we weren´t able to stop at any of the wineries. as we moved north, we encountered heavy air pollution, freeways, lots of cars, people, and traffic. it was a considerable change from the sleepy and slow paced south. back into civilization i suppose.

and now it has been 3 days since we first arrived in santiago. cities. people. lots of them. craziness. its like my head is constantly spinning. the pollution is bad. its almost nearly impossible to see the mountains that sit no more than 20 km outside of santiago. in any case we´re all adjusting. we´ve been staying at nice hotel (hotel paris) down in a lovely, quiet part of town. we´ve just arranged a rental car to head north to visit the atacama desert. ralph and thomas both have booked return flights for the 8th of may. i will continue north to arica and then peru and hopefully find a way to visit machu picchu. thats my plan and ive booked a flight from a lima, peru to vancouver, bc on the 1st of june. so it seems we are all set. and i guess thats it for the updates. we´ve packed away our bikes, dissembled our trailers, and we´re ready for the trip home. tomorrow we head north, say goodbye, and move our own separate ways. anyhow, i hope things on the homefront are going well. talk soon. chao chao.

:]


zach