La ultima dia (the last day)

So here I am. In Lima, Peru, sitting in an internet café on my final day in Peru, and South America for that matter. It's incredible to think I've come this far. Flying into Santiago, cycling north from Ushuaia for three months with Thomas. Then traveling the length of Chile with Ralph and Thomas by car. For the last month I've been traveling through Peru on my own; from the end of the world to the top (the end being Ushuaia, the top being Machu Picchu). It has been an incredible journey. Even in my last two weeks I've met so many amazing people. I was thinking two days ago how I might sum up my time down here. I finally came to the conclusion that it's truly impossible to do so. I've nearly 3 notebooks full of writings and over 50 entries on this blog. It has been great. I'm not sure what else there is to say. Thanks to everyone I've met along the way. Many are still traveling or studying, so please enjoy the rest of your time in South America. That's all there is to say. The last entry. Thanks guys.

Chao chao!

Zach

Feeling the Pull

I'm beginning to feel the pull. The tug. The aching for something far too familar. Please kill me now for I know in 3 months I will feel sick from too many familiarities. I long for my own bed. For my own pillow. My old friend: the White Jeep. I wish to pet my dog. Drive down the road, sit by the lake. I wish to play tennis. To hit my ball from the sandtrap. Ride my bike side by side with Mr. Mt. Si. And I know it. I must be nuts. Am I homesick? I think not. Simply weary from 4 months spent on the road. I simply feel the need for something stable. Something concrete. A place to permanently drop my luggage. To rest my soul. And feel the end of the road and the end of spinning tires forcing me northward. I feel the need to stop for awhile. To regain composure and plan my next excursion. For now I am aching, and longing. One more week, one more week and I'll be missing the one thing I have grown weary of...


Zach

On Machu Picchu

wow so here i am back in cusco. the trip to machu picchu was amazing. i wish i had more adjectives because im sure youre all sick of reading the same ones over and over but i really cant help myself. i was so fortunate to spend my time biking and hiking to mp with great people. i have definitely forged more reliable contacts in europe. now i have a trail leading all the way from the netherlands down to spain!

anyhow mp. lets see. we woke up at 4 am and sleepily walked from our hotel down the road to begin the hike up. pitch black and humid we hiked up using headlamps. our goal was to reach the summit before dawn. and we did. me and avi reached the top in just over 40 minutes and were in line before they opened the gates. once they did so around 6 am it was a mad rush to get to huyanapicchu (they only allow 400 ppl on the trail all day) and we got there with no problem. lots of people were running to get there but there was no need. we got the ticket for 10 (two times are available: at 7 am and 10 am) and then set out to explore the place before we met up for a tour at 7 am. it was just incredible. i was so lucky to have spent time there. just before the tour and the sun had risen over the tops of the mountains, we hiked up to the house of guardians for the classic machu picchu photo then we hightailed it down to catch the tour. i took the spanish one just bc the english one was overcrowded. after listening for 15 minutes the sun had risen over the mountains and i decided to bail on the tour and return to the house the guardians for more classic mp photos. i was happy i did. i got some great photos. and actually a little bit later i saw the group and met up with them halfway through the tour! afterwards we went to climb huyanapicchu. i was abit scared bc we had heard that it was dangerous but ultimately i decided to go. the other ppl from my group were wishy washy but eventually 3 of us. Me, Avi, and Kevin decided to do it. and we were all glad to have done it. the hike wasnt as bad as the initial hike into mp and it wasnt scary at all. apparently 7 ppl died on it last year. no worries, the view was amazing and we had to climb an additional 400m to the top. it took me about a half hour. it was spectacular. the photos really are out of this world. afterwards we hiked back down, got our passports stamped, and met up with Gabriel for lunch. Then we climbed back up to the house of the guardians and relaxed on one of the terraces. i could have stayed there forever. around 1 pm we met up with avi and decided to spend our last 2 hours going our own separate ways. i went to relax in the shade of a different terrace but got a whistle blown at me and i had to get off. i decided to make one last climb to the house of the guardians to say goodbye to mp properly. the view is just incredible and really just crazy. my entire life thats the one photo ive seen as has everyone else and i was there. we all were there. and it was just great. at 3 pm we met up at the entrance and walked back down to aguas calientes where we picked up our train tickets and grabbed some dinner. we got back to cusco around 10 pm and now im here today planning my exit from peru and the continent. just about 5 days left. incredible. for now i am out. talk soon. take care.

zach

whoa, hey!

Hello hello! Looks like this is my 51st post on my blog in the past 4 or so months! Incredible to think I've come this far. From landing in Santiago, Chile, to riding north from Ushuaia and now Peru, It's incredible to think I'm finally here. We´ve been biking and hiking our way towards Machu Picchu for the past 3 days and this afternoon we finally arrived in Aguas Calientes, the final city and last jumping off point for Machu Picchu. It's been a great journey. The group I have been with is exceptional, and quite diverse. A Spaniard: Gabriel, two Hollanders: Kevin and Avi, the two brits and honeymooners: Becky and Tony, and myself, along with the great guide from Cuzco: Hugo (El Jefe).

The first day we cycled 45 km (mostly downhill) from 4100m to 1500m to the first stop of Santa Maria. It was amazing to see the landscape and terrain change before our eyes. Halfway down we encountered jungle for the first time. Once in Santa Maria, we took dinner, had some beer, chatted, and slept.

The following day (yesterday) we left at 7 and hiked for 7 hours. We also walked on a 500 year old Inca Trail only just discovered 11 years previously. Literally one meter of walking space, and a sheer drop off nearly 1000m down to the river below. Amazing. At the end of the day we celebrated by relaxing in the hot springs of Santa Teresa. Last night we again drank beer, chatted, and played cards before turning in for the night.

This morning we took breakfast at 830 and headed out of Santa Teresa at 9 am walking upriver through Hidroelectrica, and eventually to Aguas Calientes where we are currently. Amazingly during our trek today we were able to see portions of Machu Picchu and we even paused momentarily at the entrance to Machu Picchu. Tomorrow morning we wake up at 4 am to hike 400m to reach Machu Picchu before dawn. It will be incredible. I can't wait.

And thats that. Tonight we take dinner at 7pm, and head to bed because we have to wake up so early. Tomorrow night will see us all back in Cuzco and once again as is always the case, heading our own separate ways. I will most likely head down to the coast before heading to Lima for my flight back home on the 1st of June.

I'd like to thank all of you for reading and commenting on my posts throughout the duration of my trip. This has been an amazing experience and I'm glad I was able to share it with all of you. Until next time, chao chao!

Zach

:]

On Being In Cusco

Wow so here I am. At last. The pinnacle of my trip to South America: Cusco. I thought I'd be here by bicycle, and with my best friend Thomas Schultz but it didn't work out and regardless I am here. It really is amazing to think about. I love history and I remember I learned about the Inca's and Machu Picchu. I've seen countless TV shows on The History Channel, Discovery Channel, Travel Channel: Anthony Bourdain, Samantha Brown, Andrew Zimmern, and never in my wildest dreams did I ever think I'd find myself here. Incredible. This trip has taught me so much. I've seen so much. Photographed so much. Been to so many places and met amazing people along the way. I'll be back in the states within 3 weeks. Sad to think that it is drawing to a close, but one thing I've learned is that letting go, moving on, does not always have to be a sad time because I'm moving forward, onto another journey, another stage in life, and from it I will gain more life-experience. I was just telling an old friend that nothing is out of reach. If you really want to travel then do it. I spent so long talking and not enough doing. I've done something and now I want to do more. And so I think I will...


:]

On Visiting The Islands of Taquile and the Uros

After visiting the Island of Taquile, I understand why it is said that to fully appreciate the Island it is necessary to stay one full night. The island is relaxed, its people trying to lead traditional lives. I think it is much the way it was when the Inca ruled all the surrounding land. The clothes, dresses, cloth, all in bright colors; reds, pinks, oranges, greens, and browns. The people of the floating Islands of Uros; incredible the way they live life. On nothing more than several layers of reeds, some live their entire life. The islands last 12 - 13 years, then must be replaced. As Westerners we pass through and wonder how they live that way, seemingly on a floating prison, the only company seven other families. But that is always the Westerner perception. Who are we to question their way of life when they've survived in just this way for decades; predating the Inca by one-thousand years? Modern day western civilization has been in existence for just over 100 years and it has come through like a hurricane and pushed the environment to its limits. We should be taking a lesson. As we cruise through Lago Titicaca we are simply exposed to a glimpse of their lives. I see people like this and I feel sorry, but why? Because I feel they have nothing? Because I feel I've so much more? I suppose it is all in the eye of the beholder: a car, a house, schooling, a career If I want one, are all things we as Westerners seek or tend to think of as what one needs to survive or succeed. But it is untrue. They've so much more out here. We all need to realize this. That our lives are not better, just simply different...


Zach

Valley Record Article

We finally got our 15 minutes of fame in the Sno-Valley Record! And here it is:

http://www.pnwlocalnews.com/east_king/svr/lifestyle/44402347.html

Pretty cool if you ask me. Ok, chao chao!


Zach

quick update

hey just a real quick one here guys. lets see. im in arequipa now. its been about 2 days. thinking i'll go for some white-water rafting the day after tomorrow. been seeing a lot of the town the last couple of days. i think i'll take tomorrow to relax. after arequipa i'll head to puno for 4 days or so, and then up to cusco. i was looking in the book here at the hostel and for $220 usd you can do a 4 day half-bike half-trek up to machu picchu. $220 covers entrance fee, food, lodging/tent, and the train to and from cusco. it sounds like a pretty good deal. we'll see how it goes. cant believe its already the 12th of may, the month is almost half over! ok, for now i'm out. talk soon! chao chao!


zach

El Ciervo Cabañas Massacre

Traveling with four people for so long finally pushed Thomas over the edge...

puerto montt

Taken by Thiago on our last day with Thiago: Ralph, Thomas, and I...

on arica and traveling solo

welp, lets see. its now the 7th of may and lots to update. probably wont be posting any new photos until i get home, which as it stands is the 6th of june. but i will for sure be taking lots of them. anyhow lets see. i think we left off in Santiago, set to head north into the desert.

So we rented a car, a small Chevy Corsa, strapped my bike box to the top and took off. Maps and streets and signs in Chile and Argentina don´t usually tend to make sense, and this was a recuring theme all throughout our time in the south, but maybe the capital city of Santiago would be different? Wrong. We got lost, rather horribly I might add and ended up driving around for 2 hours, downtown, on highways and other roads trying to find route 5. Eventually we did and it was a major relief. Driving all night was the plan. We had a lot of ground to cover, in the end it was 1600 km or so (1000 miles) in 24 hours. I was in the back seat while Thomas and Ralph switched off driving since I can´t drive stick. We spent the majority of the night listening to Rage Against the Machine, trance, and various other obnoxious artists good for keeping people awake and late night driving. At midnight we stopped for caffeine and energy drinks and by 330 i was asleep in the back.

I woke up around 715 and we were 150 km away from San Pedro stopped at an old abandoned town. It took us just a short time and we were there. Higher elevation and the surrounding mountains and landscape of San Pedro is unlike any other. It´s like stepping onto Mars, or the moon. The actual town of San Pedro de Atacama is quite idyllic. Old adobe houses, bright colors, narrow dirt streets and Pepper Trees. It was a really nice place, and the town it seemed was unchanged despite the incredible amount of tourism the place recieved. The first night we drove out to La Valle de La Luna (The Valley of the Moon) and took photos while the sun fell out of sight. Let me tell you, watching the sunset in the Atacama is an experience all its own. The colors were incredible. Like a fire descending down the volcanoes and altiplano in the distance. Really impossible to capture on camera or with words, you´d just have to be there to see it. That night we slept like babies.

We woke up the following morning and had plans to visit the salt flats, flamingoes, and Laguna Misconti. We arrived to the salt flats and took a stroll and it was amazing to see all the various vibrant colors. Purple, red, green, yellow, orange, all visible at various times. There were in fact flamingoes and lots of lizards. We took a lot of good photos and saw lots of amazing dry salt structures. We left in the late afternoon for Laguna Misconti and arrived just before sunset. Perfecto. We were at a pretty high elevation, nearly 3800 m and it was apparent when we hiked around the lagoon. The waters were blue and surrounded by volcanoes and peaks and once again we would witness the amazing colors during sunset. This time the hills turned gold. Things like Saffron, Tamaric, Goldenrod, come to mind when I think back to that evening. The next day we planned to visit the Geysers at El Tatio and apparently it was necessary to arrive very early. 90 km on less than adequate roads, we´d heard that tour operators leave around 4 am.

We woke up at 415 and planned to be on the road by 430. We headed out, I fell asleep in the back seat and woke up about 10 km out. Upon arrival, we paid the fee and drove the short distance down to the geysers. Steam was rising and the smell of sulfur was strong. We all agreed later that we´d arrived too early. It was much better lighting later in the morning, and far less tourist groups. Nevertheless it was amazing. Like stepping back in time to the earths´ early beginnings. Geyers, bubbling pools, vibrant colors from minerals, it was awesome. We arrived at 630 and didnt leave until quarter to 10. And then we had the plan to visit some Incan Ruins about 30 km north and west of El Tatio. Finally we decided to take a shorter, gravel road to our destination. Upon embarking on the road we saw a sign telling us of the bad state of the road ahead. We had no idea what we were in for in our small, no-clearance-whatsoever-chevy corsa, but we were in for an adventure. We climbed high into the mountains, and right off the bat it was apparent that the road was far more suited to a modified 4 wheel off road pick-up. Along the way the drive was amazing. Mountains, more volcanoes, pre-columbian ruins, and old incan trails. We stopped so many times to take photos and remove rocks from the road. Our highest point was just over 4300 m (nearly the equivalent to Mount Rainier) and it was crazy to think Thomas and I were out there running around moving rocks. Eventually we made it to a valley and passed an old abandoned hydroelectric project. There was light at the end of the tunnel for us. And just when we think this, disaster strikes and we pulled up to an unpassable river crossing. maybe 3 or 4 feet deep. And so maybe 10 km from our goal we had to turn around. We were in jeopardy of really getting into something bad. Our fuel was running low, we didnt have much food, and it took us 3 hours to drive 20 km and we were in a Chevy Corsa (refer to photo: http://espaciocoches.com/wp-content/chevrolet-corsa-classic-2007.jpg). We were all disappointed, angry, and frustrated, and it was highly apparent on the ride back. Ralph pulled off some miracles climbing up some of the hills, keeping us on the road and preventing us from getting stuck. At one point Thomas and I had to push the car up a hill and when we got to the top Thomas said he almost cried he was so happy. Eventually we got back to geysers and even back to San Pedro. There was dust on the car, in the car, in our hair and eyes and when we got back to town and our hostel, we were all exhausted. As Thomas said, there was no other way to end the trip. And that was that. We got back to town, grabbed some dinner and headed to the bus station. I was dreading it. Scared to be alone and traveling into Peru. We said goodbye, good luck, thanks, and embraced and I boarded the bus for Arica.

Sleep last night was minimal but I arrived into town early this morning and took a long nap in a nice big bed. Tomorrow I head north to Tacna, Peru and begin my long trek through the southern regions of Puno and Lago Titicaca and then to Cuzco and Machu Picchu. It will be an adventure, a challenge, but I know I can rise to the ocasion. I suppose thats it for now. Not sure when I´ll get a chance to update next but maybe in Puno. Ok I´m hungry and wanting to get out of this chair! I hope you´re all well. Thanks for reading :] talk soon! Chao chao!


Zach

hola!

hola buen dia! how is everyone? well, lots to update. too much in fact. after puerto montt, saying goodbye to thiago, and taking the rental truck north, we made 300 km in the first day up to villarica.

we stayed in the town for 3 days. the first night was spent in a swiss hospedaje downtown. the following day we headed out and hiked up towards volcan villarica, high into native arucania (monkey puzzle) forests. it was amazing. we were probably 10 km from the summit of the volcano. great views, great photo ops and a great hike. we all really enjoyed the day.

after our hike we decided to head to pucon, a popular tourist destination, for dinner. but afterwards we decided to head back to villarica. ralph had found a flyer for dog mushing, so we all agreed to head back and check it out. we arrived late at night. the couple, as it turns out were german (perfect for ralph), were very nice and welcomed us despite the late hour. they had one cabaña left and it was a great one. we spent two nights there. the first day thomas and i took a jog with one of their dogs. later, thomas and ralph rode horses and at the end of the night we had a bbq. salad, meat, potatoes, beer and wine. it was an enjoyable night. our time spent there definitely remains a high point on this trip. ralph also left with the possibility of a winter job. reluctantly, we left the following morning. and we were headed for the coast without any real plan in mind.

by the end of that day we were exhausted yet we all felt like we hadn´t really gotten anywhere. all day in the car and where had we ended up? we spent the night in a cabaña and left the following morning with the intention of doing some wine tasting and maybe some sightseeing of some of the towns along the panamerican highway.

we headed north, and our first stop was at villa alegre; an older, well preserved town with houses and streets that date to the 19th century. that day we ended up running out of time as we didnt leave villa alegre until 5 pm and we weren´t able to stop at any of the wineries. as we moved north, we encountered heavy air pollution, freeways, lots of cars, people, and traffic. it was a considerable change from the sleepy and slow paced south. back into civilization i suppose.

and now it has been 3 days since we first arrived in santiago. cities. people. lots of them. craziness. its like my head is constantly spinning. the pollution is bad. its almost nearly impossible to see the mountains that sit no more than 20 km outside of santiago. in any case we´re all adjusting. we´ve been staying at nice hotel (hotel paris) down in a lovely, quiet part of town. we´ve just arranged a rental car to head north to visit the atacama desert. ralph and thomas both have booked return flights for the 8th of may. i will continue north to arica and then peru and hopefully find a way to visit machu picchu. thats my plan and ive booked a flight from a lima, peru to vancouver, bc on the 1st of june. so it seems we are all set. and i guess thats it for the updates. we´ve packed away our bikes, dissembled our trailers, and we´re ready for the trip home. tomorrow we head north, say goodbye, and move our own separate ways. anyhow, i hope things on the homefront are going well. talk soon. chao chao.

:]


zach

Castro to Tenaun

Photo post including our time spent in the capital of Castro and our ride through Delcahue to Tenaun...

Chaiten

Here we go with photos from Chaiten. I hope the photos capture the feeling of being there as well as the destruction and damage from the eruption...

Puerto Montt

And so we are here! Back in Puerto Montt nearly 3 months to the date first arrived here. Over 2,500 km cycled and it´s amazing to ride back into town by bicycle.

Yesterday we left Ancud around 11 am. It looked nice enough, but 2 minutes after stepping out the front door of our cabaña, the rain started falling and as we rode out of the city we were caught in a downpour. We pulled into a gas station to wait it out, but it was too late and the rain was letting up. We were drenched from head to toe and I opted to change into dry clothes. Perfect way to start the day. After changing, we headed out for Chachao, where the ferry would take us back across to the mainland. We made good time, and arrived there at 2 pm to catch the ferry. While on the ferry we heard it was about 65 km to Puerto Montt and we doubted whether or not we´d be able to make it to Puerto Montt. We contemplated finding a cabaña somewhere in between. About 30 minutes out we saw a sign that told us 48 km to Puerto Montt. It was only 55 km from the ferry landing and not 65, and so we decided to make a push and get to Puerto Montt. A short ways after that, it became apparent that I had pushed too hard in the morning and I was becoming tired fast. At the end of the day we would ride nearly 100 km (the most of any day on our trip). I was completely exhausted, but it was still amazing to ride into the city. An amazing trip. Like I said earlier we´ve been fortunate to share it with so many people and see so many amazing sights.

Plans for the next few weeks may include renting a car with Ralph and heading north to Santiago, stopping to see some sights along the way. If that turns out to be too expensive, we may opt for a train ride from Puerto Montt to Temuco and then onto Santiago from there. We´re not sure. Thomas may leave from Santiago to head home, I may continue on and visit Bolivia and Peru, that´s also undecided. We´ll have to see how things go. I´m about to post photos from the last two weeks so sit tight, relax, and enjoy the show :P I hope things back home are going well and I apologize for the lack of spot messages. Talk soon! Chao chao!


Zach

quick update

Hola! How is everyone? Ok so to update our status....after arriving in Quellon, we promptly took a ferry and visited Chaiten for 3 days (I don´t remember If I already said this or not :P bear with me). After Chaiten we returned to Quellon for a night and headed out the next morning for Chonchi. We stayed there for a night and then headed to Castro, the capital of the island and stayed there for a day. While there we talked to a travel agent and he told us we should definitely visit the Island of Mechuque. He told us to ride to Tenaun and find a fishing boat to take us out to the island. So we did. And we stayed on the island for two days. One of our main reasons for going was to seek out the "Curanto" a well known cooked-in-the-ground bbq, but we were disappointed when we found out it was not possible. We stayed in a quiet cabin with an amazing view for two nights and had great weather. From there (yesterday) we took a ferry back across to the main island of Chiloe and then rode 90 km to Ancud (where we are currently). Today we rode 60 km to the Pacific Coast and back and it was amazing. Tonight we´ll sleep and then head out for Puerto Montt tomorrow morning.

Puerto Montt will mark our final destination by bike. The trip has taken us 2.500 km from Ushuaia in the far south, through Tierra del Fuego, Argentina and Chile, through two amazing national parks, and the amazing desolation and beauty of the Carretera Austral. More recently we´ve been through the Island of Chiloe and we´ll end it tomorrow by arriving in Puerto Montt (the same place we began heading into the deep south when we boarded the Navimag Ferry back at the end of January). We´ve been fortunate to share our experiences with Jacob (the hollander) and Thiago and Ralph (the Brazilian and the German). Its been amazing and tomorrow the cycling portion is over. No idea where we´ll go, but we´ll start by visiting some friends in Santiago and go from there. I suppose thats it. Expect a better update with photos when we get to Puerto Montt! Ok I´m out! Chao chao!


Zach

Coyhaique to Quellon: In Photos

So here goes. Coyhaique to Quellon. The entire experience took just 3 days by bike and ferry combo from Puerto Chacabuco, to the Port of Quellon on the southern tip of the Island of Chiloe. Spanning a distance of approximately 250 km, we were confined to the ferry Don Baldo, for 26 hours. Here is what we saw along the way:

New News

Hola! How is everyone doing? It's been about a week or so since my last update. I think now, despite the fact that I've managed to continue updating my profile regularly for the past 2 and a half months, I think I've decided to stray from posting updates in writing, and only posting updates photographically. I've got my personal journal and I write in that daily, haha and while that is not good for you at home, it's good enough for me. I think people are stimulated visually far easier anyhow, so from here on out, my blog will feature limited commentary, and more photos. I hope that suits you all well and I hope you enjoy my photos and videos! Until next time, chao chao!


Zach

night out

drinking beer at Cafe Ricer in Coyhaique!



From left to right: Thiago, Thomas, Me, and Ralph

an update

So allow me to update our plans because they have most definitely changed, quite drastically, since the last post. So it would appear that we´ve finally realized how little time we have left down here. I suppose that can be both a good and a bad thing, but we´ve been trying hard not to think too much about it. Our original plan was to rent a car and drive from Coyhaique north to see the destruction at Chaiten, and then head across to the Futaleufú Valley, maybe do some whitewater rafting. But just yesterday we received information about ferry service across to the island of Chiloe, which we were planning on driving up through after Chaiten and Futaleufú. It´s a 36 hour crossing from Puerto Chacabuco and the service runs 3 days a week. We´ve been more or less riding north from El Chalten with two other cyclists (Ralph and Thiago) and we´ve decided to partner up and head to Puerto Chacabuco tomorrow and catch the ferry headed to Chiloe. Once on Chiloe we´ll ride north and hopefully ride the length of it (just about 250 km) in about 4 days. After that we should be in Puerto Montt in a day and we´ve been discussing options from there. There is ferry service from Puerto Montt to Chaiten but it´s 8 hours and it would require us to spend the night 17 km outside of Chaiten. Ralph has suggested we rent a car and drive to Chaiten from Puerto Montt, which would allow us to do a roundtrip in one day. We´ll have to see how things go. I´m thinking that at the very least we could bug out and take a bus or transport up Chiloe and get to Puerto Montt. I guess we´ll just have to see how things go and play it by ear.

In the meantime, you should head over here and check out Thiago´s website. It´s quite good, lots of really nice photos, but it´s impossible to read unless you know portuguese :P

http://www.trilhasulamericana.com.br/

From left to right: Thiago, Me, Ralph, and Thomas

Hitchhike Video

In Coyhaique!

Ok so first off, hello! We are officially in Coyhaique, we just arrived this morning around 10 am Chile time. Lots to fill you in on, but first, let me begin by saying that while we were in Cochrane, I was re-reading one of my blog entries and realized that my entries appear to have been bitten by the I´m-uninteresting-and-completely-lackluster monster, so from here on out I will try and capture the excitement and exhiliration that I really do feel out there when we´re riding and travelling to new cities. I´ve gotten bogged down in numbers and distances and have really only been describing our days based off of those things so from here on out I´m going to try hard to change it up! So why not start by filling you in on what´s been going on since we left out of Cochrane! Ok here goes...


So we were in Cochrane for 3 nights. The last two we had rain and by the following morning it was no different. So instead of sitting around waiting for the rain to stop we decided to try and head out for Puerto Betrand, a small pueblo about 50 km from Cochrane. Well we rolled out in the rain and got up the first hill and stopped to fill up our gas can. As we continued to ride we soon realized that the rain was not going to let up and we were getting ourselves primed for getting nowhere that day. Thomas was weakened significantly from being sick the past couple of days and riding a bike through the pouring rain wasn´t going to help that. It was then, after struggling for 2 hours, that we decided hitching might not be a bad option. A couple cars passed and finally we decided to try flagging someone down. I saw a car with 3 people, including a child in the front seat and thought we had no chance. I was shocked when they pulled over and immediately began loading our gear into their small pickup. Only question was where we were headed. Turns out they were headed for Bertrand. Perfect! And so that was that. Insert end of rainy day ride here. In 45 minutes we were in Bertrand and soon thereafter we were out of wet clothes and relaxing with warm drinks on a comfortable bed. That was a good day.

The following morning was brilliant. We thought the weather might continue to be rain and cold but when we looked outside, we saw snow on the high peaks, and bright sun on the deep blue of the nearby rio. We loaded up and were riding up the hill and out of Bertrand by 12 pm. As we did so, we looked up ahead and saw two other cyclists. It was none other than Thaigo and Ralph! The ones we´d met in El Chalten and taken the ferry across Lago O´Higgins with! We couldn´t believe it! Just that morning we´d discussed where they could possibly be. Coyhaique, I´d said. It turns out no! They were in the same place we were! We discussed possible options, where we´d been, how we´d come to be in the same small place, and what our future plans were. As it turns out, about 15 km down the road they would be splitting off to head east to Chile Chico and cross Lago General Carrera, while we would head North on the Carretera and go through Cerro Castillo from Puerto Tranquilo. Going this way would allow us to see Las Catedrales de Marmol (The Marble Cathedrals). That day we thought we could make it all the way to the Cathedrals and Puerto Tranquilo, but Thomas was still weak and we decided to try and shoot for El Leone, a peublo situated at the west end of Lago General Carrera. The day was nice (actually any day with no rain on the Carretera is a nice one) and we arrived at El Leone in the late afternoon, early evening, to find that the pueblo consisted of two houses, one of which was occupied by an older man who was outside chopping wood. We decided to ask if camping was possible. We did so and he said yes, but that there was a location just down the way that offered paid camping. Apparently they allowed fires to be made and facilities to be used. So we said thank you and headed off that way. Once there it looked as if no one was home, and peering inside it looked almost as though it was some sort of community center, but for what community we weren´t sure. We looked around and decided on a spot for the tent that was out of the wind and had protection from rain. At about this time the man was walking down the road towards us. We went to meet him, and he looked displeased. We were confused when we seemed angry and told us to get out. When we stood there and stared back with bewildered looks on our faces he threatened to call the Carabiñeros. We just got on our bikes and headed out down the road. We´re still not sure what happened. He was either drunk or had it out for americans. That night we camped out under a bridge, near a river about 7 km from that spot. If you´re ever on the Carretera Austral, and your map shows a town at El Leone, don´t stop haha, just keep going.

The next day, we had heard previously that the weather would be good, and it was. It would be a nice ride down into Puerto Tranquilo and good weather for viewing the Marble Cathedrals. We rode up and down the hills next to Lago General Carrera, and had amazing views all day. I wondered where Thaigo and Ralph were on the other side.



Around 1 pm we arrived at a sign that said: Las Catedrales de Marmol, and rode down to the bottom. When we arrived we saw a boat heading out. A man came out to greet us, and he told us that the men in the boat were heading to Puerto Tranquilo, and he thought they would be back around 4 or 5 pm. That left us with about 3 hrs to kill. We did so by doing a combination of sitting around, talking with the guy, petting his dog, exploring, and hacky sacking. By the time 4 pm rolled around, the guy put his hands up and said he did not know when they would be back. So we said ok, and decided to head out while there was still daylight. Unfortunately at the top of the hill we saw the boat arriving. Bummer, but no worries. We had only 6 km to roll until we arrived in Puerto Tranquilo. Once there, we grabbed some food and discussed our options. For the day we´d only gone about 27 km, but with the daylight fading we decided to bunk down for the night in the town and head out the following morning.

From Puerto Tranquilo we had about 120 km to Villa Cerro Castillo. We figured we could manage that distance in two days. The day we headed out it was sunny and the barometer was up above 1000 mb. We rode out of town under pristine skies. That day was quite enjoyable. Lots of photos and we made good time as well.





At the junction with Puerto Murta we paused for lunch before continuing on away from Lago General Carrera into the mountains towards Cerro Castillo.



We cruised down valleys along rivers, and steep snowy mountainsides and had a relatively flat day. We were shooting for 60 km, but at 53 km we spotted an amazing campsite and we decided to call it and bunk down.



We made a fire and ate spaghetti. We had 67 km the following day to ride to Villa Cerro Castillo.

On our last day into Cerro Castillo we awoke to rain on the tent. Thinking it would be another rainy day, we lay inside the tent for awhile not wanting to get out. Slowly it began to let up. We got out on the road early that day, by 10 am we were riding up the road. I was geared up for the worst, rain pants, rain jacket, and shoe covers. By the end of the day i had shed all of it. We made incredibly good time. Initially we encountered drizzly conditions as we rode up through southern temperate rainforests to an adjacent valley. Austral parakeets, tall canopy-like trees, and thick mists were our morning. After the initial 10 km of climbs, we cruised downhill to Valle Rio Ibañez on exceptional roads. We had covered nearly 35 km in under 2 hours. After reaching Rio Ibañez we encountered the typical cruddy roads and that slowed our pace. By the late afternoon we were paused on a bridge for a snack with about 15 km left. The sun was still out. Not a single raindrop after the morning. Next we found ourselves on a steep climb that lasted nearly 5 km and was made more difficult by 2 inches of mud. Eventually we reached the top and I thought it may be all downhill to the town, but it was not to be as we had just dropped down into yet another valley, which we would have to climb out of. Being in that valley, it was very apparent that autumn had come. Riding out of the valley, the climb wasn´t very steep, it was just made more difficult by the thick mud. Eventually we reached the top and had a lovely 5 km descent into Villa Cerro Castillo. It was great to be reaching another town. It was incredibly small, but we found a cheap hostel. That night we drank microbrew and ate good food (the best Lomo Al Lo Pobre I´ve ever had on this trip) and chatted with an older couple from Australia. They told us they´d cycled across america in 1978, and the guy had just spent a month in antarctica. Definitely not your average older couple. We didnt know if we would head out the next day or not. It was a weather dependent departure.

All night it rained, in fact, all night it poured, and I was dreading the following morning if it was still pouring. We walked into town and bought bread, strawberry jame, butter, and honey and when we returned to eat it was still raining. By 11 am it seemed to be letting up. The barometer confirmed that It might be clearing out, so we geared up and headed out. We were on the road by 1230. Looking behind us we decided that we´d been duped as Valle Rio Ibañez was filling with gray cloud and rain. When we were 9 km outside of town the rain caught us I stopped to put on my rain gear. Thomas rode up, and told me he was feeling super weak, and his knee was shot. We decided it was best to try and hitch a ride. We pulled over and waited inside a bus stop for 3 hours. We´d seen cars coming down from the pass with snow on their windshields.





Maybe it was best we didn´t try and ride over the pass. By 5 pm we hadn´t been picked up. A gaucho who owned an estancia adjacent to the bus stop came out and offered us refuge from the cold and rain. We took him up on his deal and spent the night by the fire drinking coffee and eating homemade bread and jam. I am still amazed by the hospitality of some people down here. So quick some people are to offer all they have for complete strangers. We slept well that night.

This morning we woke up early and we were headed out to the bus stop by 8 am. The rain was all but gone and on the mountains, fresh snow and sunlight. The valley was beginning to show signs of fall; most of the trees tinged with red. As we stood at the bus stop, Thomas was ready to suck it up and head over the pass. I was ready for a ride to Coyhaique. One car passed, no stop. Another, this time a truck we´d seen yesterday. In the cab was a man and a woman and the truck pulled over. The man got out and asked if we were headed to Coyhaique. YES! haha and that was that, we loaded up and rode to Coyhaique in the back of a cattle transport! (I´ve got a sweet video and some photos from the pass I´ll post after this entry). By the time we got over the pass it was quite apparent that we made a good decision and lucked out by not having to ride over the pass there was still lots of snow and ice over the road heading over the pass.





The ride to Coyhaique was chilly, but amazing. Through the snowy pass we descended into the valley on the other side. Through small pueblos and estancias eventually arriving in Coyhaique, population 44,000. We found a nice hostel and now we´re here posting updates, and photos. We want to try and find Ralph and Thaigo and make plans to drive north to Chaiten, and ghost town now due to the multiple eruptions of the nearby Volcan Chaiten. We´ll see how that goes. In any case, I hope this entry is better than the last few :] Let me know if you enjoy the photos and video I´m about the post! Ok I´m out! Chao Chao!


Zach

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Photos: Villa O´Higgins to Cochrane

and so here we go. not sure how many i just uploaded but i think it was quite afew. let me know if you like them, hopefully the answer is yes! im starving so i guess that means im out. catch you all lates! chao!!

zach